Clearing a drain: baking soda + vinegar

If a drain is slow, the following method using hot water + baking soda; then adding hot water  + vinegar -- and then flushing with hot water, works great.  Sometimes, I will use a plunger beforehand; this sometimes loosens debris enough to unclog slow drains.

If the plunger method doesn't work, then:

• Flush with hot water (pot or several cups of hot water)
• Cup of baking soda with hot water to get it into the drain.
• Let sit for 5 minutes
• Add cup of vinegar, flush down with cup of hot water.
• Close drain and let sit for 10-15 minutes
• Flush with hot water.  

Laundry Machines: To HE or not to HE..??

Are you looking for a new washing machine (and/or washer/dryer) to do your laundry?  We think the idea behind the new-fangled "High Efficiency (HE)" washing machines are great.  The machines use an "impeller" that pushes the clothes in a cyclone kind of motion in order to:

• use less water
• save energy -- especially heating up the (lower quantity of) water.

However, the execution of this newer technology currently seems lacking.  Many people complain about:

• clothes that do not get cleaned, 
• extra-wrinkly clothes, and
• machines are rough with clothes. 
• In addition, reviews are consistently mediocre -- across the board for the HE machines.  For example:  
• http://www.wisegeek.org/what-is-an-high-efficiency-washing-machine.htm

Other laundry machine tidbits:

• Front-loading washing machines need the rubber gaskets cleaned from time to time to avoid mold/mildew.  In fact, many suggest leaving the doors open to avoid mold/mildew and the associated smells.
• Top vs. Front-loaders:  
• http://www.consumersearch.com/washing-machine-reviews/how-to-buy-a-washing-machine
• Recent reviews:   http://www.consumersearch.com/washing-machine-reviews/top-loading-washers

Sharpening Your Cooking Knives

Are your good cooking knifes getting dull?

Make sure you "hone" your knives with a "steel" regularly....   Here's a good link on how to "hone" your knife and keep the edge sharp.
http://culinaryarts.about.com/od/culinarytools/ht/honing.htm




and sharpen your knives once in a while with a knife sharpener.  Honing ensures the micro-edge of the knife is sharp/not folded on itself (unfolded).  Periodic sharpening removes a weak edge and shapes a new, stronger, edge.



Some people prefer to use an electric sharpener like this highly-rated Chef's Choice sharpener.  However, we don't like the amount of metal that these machines remove from our good knives.



Note that knives that never need sharpening (often serrated knives) -- do, in fact, need to be sharpened.

Here is some good information on knives:
http://www.edgecraft.com/tips_myth_all.html

Hot Water Heater Settings

In the northeast US, we're in the middle of winter, so some folks are adjusting their hot water heater -- especially if this is used for heating the house.

• The difference between the high / low setting should be around 20-30 degrees apart for many systems.
• Increasing the spread slightly (5-10 degrees), and lowering the temperature of the min/max settings (try 5-10 degrees at a time) can save 5-10% of your heating bill.
• A common setting is 140/160, although 135/160 may be hot enough for some systems.  During the summer, 125/150 may be hot enough.
• Lower temperatures may make the heating / radiators quieter as they heat up.  They will also cause less mineral deposits, making the hot water tank/system last longer.
• During the winter, may need to adjust hotter if the hot water is used for heating.

Read more from this forum:

http://www.heatinghelp.com/forum-thread/98623/hi-lo-settings-for-oil-fired-boiler

I Opened a Bottle of Wine with a Tree

(without breaking the bottle)...  I did this and it works -- but be careful and strike the bottle's bottom "flat" to reduce stress on the bottle -- and reduce the chances of breaking the bottle.

Or...  How to Open a Bottle of Wine without a Corkscrew:

http://www.wikihow.com/Open-a-Wine-Bottle-Without-a-Corkscrew

Caulking Tips

We live life -- and things gradually age and get old. Many people neglect the relatively easy job of caulking around sinks, showers and bathtubs because they are afraid they won't get the neat, professional look that handymen and contractors get. Here are some tips so you can get professional, sharp edges -- and refresh your home.

What you'll need:

• Knife
• Caulk (silicone for wet areas in the bathroom and kitchen, latex for dry areas). GE SiliconeII and PolySeamSeal Tub & Tile Adhesive caulk are recommended for wet areas.
• Caulk Gun
• Painters or Masking Tape
• Alcohol (or soapy water) - if using silicone caulk
• Rags or paper towels.

Now, let's get down to business:

1. Use the knife to help you clean the areas to be caulked. Then, vacuum the area. Any debris will prevent the silicone from sticking. Note that if the gap is more then 1/2", you might want to "build up the area" to give the caulk more support.
2. Use the painters or masking tape to tape around both sides of the joint. About 1/4" is good and gives a neater look. Smaller is better; you can even just get the caulk in the crack! Make sure the tape is straight and down firmly -- it's there to catch the excess caulk.
3. Caulk slowly and steadily. Try to get a good, consistent, bead in the joint -- but don't worry if you don't get it perfect now: we'll press the caulk in later. Caulk one section (say two to eight feet) at a time so you have time to do the next few steps before the caulk starts to dry.
4. Wet your finger with water (alcohol or soapy water for silicone caulk) and run your finger (or rounded tool) along the joint and press the caulk into the joint. Use the rag or paper towels to clean the excess off of your fingers and then re-wet your finger with water or alcohol.
5. Immediately pull the tape up in the area you have caulked. You don't want the silicone to dry before you do this step. Watch the angle you pull the caulk up -- to avoid smudging.

And, that's it: you should have a neat, professional-looking appearance. Good luck.

Humidity for Musical Instruments (and Humans!)

Winter is here -- and the air is getting dryer -- particularly when the heat is on. This is especially true in the northern areas of the country.  Below is some info on humidity levels; please run your humidifiers to protect your musical instruments, your skin -- and prevent static shocks!

• Piano:  one of our friends, a piano tuner -- says that 42% humidity is ideal for a piano.
• Instruments such as fine violins like humidity in that range as well.  
• Less than 30% humidity is dangerous for valuable wooden instruments. 
• 35% is on the low side; 40% or more is safe.  

You can run humidifiers and use hygrometers to monitor the humidity in your home.  Increasing the humidity in your home during the dry winter months will make your musical instruments happier -- as well as your skin!